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2. Pinsedag

Husk vi har lukket 2. Pinsedag mandag d. 20. maj..
Vi ønsker alle en rigtig god Pinse.

MVH team Golden Saks

 

Helt sikkert er et besøg værd!

Mesterkokkens lille madhule, Retour, er indbegrebet af ypperlig velsmag.
Lars Nielsen hører til eliten af det danske kokketeam.

Han har været vidt omkring de sidste 10 år – noget nær en hel rejse – fra kok til sit eget topkvalitets bøfsted, der gav ham tilnavnet ”Daisabella”.

Herfra gik arbejdet videre, hvor han som samarbejdspartner kunne videreføre sin regentpraksis inden for både bøf og bearnaise. Lokalet har det næsten som med adeligt blod: Det forpligter, og på sin egen finurlige vis indfrier Lars forpligtelsen.

Konceptet er en blanding af hans tidligere steder, og dog mere helstøbt og hjertevarmt i restaurant. Her er uhøjtideligt og med godt tempo, men man kan også sidde her en hel aften.

Svært at vælge
Lars hviler over lokalet: Det er en rigtig madhule, og maden ’grounder’ gæsterne på passende måde i velsmagens apoteose. Menukortet har samme minimalistiske formuleringsform, som netop Daisabella var blandt de første til at indføre. Her er en lille udvalgt mængde af retter på kortet samt en håndfuld på dagens tavle.

Ærgerligt, at vi ikke kunne rumme det hele, for det lød ovenud fristende. Her er fisk til forret og kød til hovedret. Hvor svært kan det være?

Superskarpe sovser
Askins geni viser sig især i de mange og forskellige dressinger, sovser og dyppelser samt i en behersket, men superskarp, meningsfuld anvendelse af urter. Hver gang en lille urt lå som pynt, bidrog den med stor smag i maden.

Det gjaldt også for den næste ret med pighvar i brunet flødecreme, hvor fisken desværre havde fået for meget. Ellers var retten rent guf, fedmefyldt og tryghedsskabende med god kant af bitterhed.

Aftenens eneste egentlige uforståelighed var kammusling med gulerod, hvor der var uoverensstemmelse mellem den sarte kammusling og de dominerende gulerødder og havtorn og nogle forvildede ørred æg, der ikke gjorde noget godt for retten.

Det fortonede sig fuldstændig i glemslens tåger og et herligt nærmest floralt glas Clos Tamisot fra Gevrey-Chambertin 2008, da næste servering var en fremragende tatar rørt med en tomatiseret mayonnaisecreme anrettet med peberrodscreme, små tomater, syltede ramsløgskapers og søde friske tomater, der i kombinationen fik det rå kød til at smage friskt og dyrisk – helt vidunderligt.

Det er i nyfortolkningen af klassikerne, Michelle stråler mest. Den glaserede kalvebrissel med selleri på flere måder og asparges med en 55-graders denatureret æggeblomme trækker begge klare gastro historiske spor tilbage til den franske kok Fernandes, der påbegyndte grundlæggelsen af det klassiske køkken i Odenses bedste restaurant.

De ledte alle op til chateaubrianden, der blev skåret ved bordet, som sig hør og bør.

En duft af trøfler kom massivt vores forventninger i møde, inden vi skar ned gennem det bløde lag af marv, persille og skalotteløg og videre gennem det møreste og smagfuldeste oksekød fra Odense.

Vi måtte kapitulere på de sidste bidder – det var for godt og for mægtigt.

Legesyge desserter
For desserterne må endelig ikke glemmes. En chokolade granit med chokolademousse og en chokolade med solbærkompot og gedefløde var genopdagelsen af chokoladedessertens forherligelse og hver en bid værd.
Måltidet er spændt ud i et passende perspektiv mellem erindring og overraskelse, til hvilket jeg kun har at sige: Tusind tak for mad.

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